Today we are going to be working on the Skirt Overlay. Working with three layers of anything can be a bit trying. But when you work with chiffon, even just one layer, can be a true headache. So hope this post helps a little.
The Rolled Hem Foot
Over the years I have done many different types of hemming for chiffon and my favorite by far is the rolled hem. To do this you are going to need a special foot. I have seen applications where they use a regular straight stitch foot and even done by hand. But once you get the hang of if the Rolled Hem Foot is the easiest option. You just have to take your time and don't RUSH anything.
There are a ton of videos and tutorials on the internet on how to use this type of foot. And just as many different style of starting the hem. I have found a video that shares a lot of information that I thought you would like. It covers most everything you would need to know about this foot. Including working with the lightweight fabrics such as chiffon.
Since I chose to do this dress with a chiffon overlay I'll show you a bit about the hemming that I have done. If you are using a different type of fabric such as organza or tulle you can do the zig-zag method, which I'll show you in just a bit.
To begin with start with your lower skirt overlay. This piece is bigger and has a larger curve on it, which can be a little easier to hem. It is best to test sew a piece a few times just to get the feel of the fabric. In the video she chose to start slightly different than I do. I like to use my awl point to guide the piece into fold. I do it this way for the mere fact that it's easier for me personally. You may prefer another method. Once again, practice, practice,
Start by setting your machine to a zig-zag stitch. I chose a length of 1.4 mm and a width of 3.5 mm. Please note that sewing on tulle your width and length will be smaller than normal. So test a piece first to make sure it's the size you want. Sew this zigzag stitch 1/4" from the edge for the first pass. Do all the lengthwise edges. Next you going to make a second pass. This second pass acts to stabilize the stitches along with making it look neater. This time, however, set your zigzag at a length of 0.7 mm and a width of 3.0 mm. Your going to run this zigzag directly over the first one. When your done trim the excess away. Be very careful not to clip your stitches.
After you have hemmed all three layers your going to need to pin the upper edges together. I like to do this with the lower two layers first then add the third, removing and replacing the pins as I go. It's important to have all you upper edges line up as close as possible.
If you haven't seen my other posts about this Sew-Along and would like to catch up click on the links below.
- Announcing the Sweet Violet Sew-Along
- Sweet Violet Sew-Along: Gathering Fabric and Supplies
- Sweet Violet Sew-Along: Cutting and Marking Our Fabric
- Sweet Violet Sew-Along: Sewing the Bodice
- Sweet Violet Sew-Along: Preparing the Skirt Overlay (June 8)
- Sweet Violet Sew-Along: Sewing and Attaching the Skirt (June 10)
- Sweet Violet Sew-Along: Embroidery Work and Misc. (June 12)
- Sweet Violet Sew-Along: Sewing the Petticoat (June 15)
- Sweet Violet Sew-Along: Making the Gloves & Purse (June 17)